David M. Watkins

"Scotch & Suits" Event This Saturday - Special Packages Announced!!

2011-02-16T16:35:00.000-08:00

Early Bird Spring/Summer Package: A special designed for those getting their spring/summer shopping done early. Customers will receive a free suit or sport coat outfit with purchase of a silver package or higher! This will include 4 custom suits or sport coats/slacks -- 3 custom shirts-- 3 hand made silk ties - $3,300!!

Links Golf Package: 3 Golf Slacks -- 3 Custom Golf Shorts -- 3 Aqua Cotton Polo's

Normally $1,575 - Scotch & Suits price: $1400

Gladson Fabric Blowout: We have secured an incredible deal from Gladson Mills (Italian and English cloth) Wide array of fabrics to choose from and some of the best cloth we sell. All GOLD and PLATINUM packages will be discounted 10% AND you will receive one FREE SUIT with package!!

GOLD PACKAGE: 4 "Gold" Gladson custom suits -- 3 custom shirts -- 3 hand made silk ties

Normally $4,400 - Scotch & Suits price: $3,960

PLATINUM PACKAGE: 4 "Platinum" Gladson custom suits -- 3 custom shirts -- 3 hand made silk ties

Normally $5,500 - Scotch & Suits price: $$4,950 and a FREE SUIT!!

Shirt Package: Buy 5 shirts get one free! $675

Slacks Package: Buy 5 slacks get one free! Starting @ $875

CLIENT PARTY: SCOTCHES AND SUITS - Raleigh, NC

2011-02-02T13:02:00.000-08:00

Do you live in the Raleigh, NC area and want to have a night of incredible Astor & Black deals? Great friend and client Mr. John Craft will be holding a Scotch and Suits gala at his lovely home. Please rsvp to myself or Mr. Craft if you plan on attending. more details to come about superb deals so stay tuned.

Here is what John has to say about the event!

Event Details Link - Scotch and Suits

Announcing - Scotch and Suits 2011! (02/19)

I have been buying custom tailored clothing from a company called Astor & Black for about three years now. They have a unique business model where a rep will visit your office or home and personally work with you on fabrics, cuts and style. I initially bought three suits (Super 120's/150's), six shirts and six ties for around $3,000 -- ALL custom-measured and fitted. Since then, I have purchased golf pants, business slacks, shorts --- you name it! Prices are well below what you would normally pay for decent quality off-the-rack stuff. I have bought clothes from every men's store you can think of and I have to say my Astor & Black suits are the best quality for the price I have ever owned.

I work with a great rep out of Charlotte named (David Watkins) and have now made arrangements for him to visit Raleigh the weekend of 02/19/2011. So, I'm putting together another event at my house and hope you will attend. We had a blast a few years ago...

There's no obligation to buy if you attend. But if you are interested in taking a look at the product, or you just want to hang out and drink some scotch, come on over! I am confident you will decide on a purchase if you are in the market for some new threads.

Please RSVP no later than Friday, Feb 11, 2011 via email. Look for more details soon.
Pass along to anyone else who might be interested.

Thanks!
Crafty
Event Details Link - Suits and Scotch

Dress Better (Video Feature) from Bearings Guide

2010-07-01T17:57:00.000-07:00

Dress Better (Video Feature) from Bearings Guide featuring Sid Mashburn

Scabal Deco Pack

2010-06-09T06:48:00.000-07:00

The Scabal A/W 2010-11 decoration pack contains: 8 sleeve bottle holders, made from the new range of AW 2010 fabrics...cool presentation right?

SCABAL VIDEO: Autumn/Winter Preview

2010-06-09T06:44:00.000-07:00

The new model: more color, more casual....

It’s not a seismic shift, but there’s a distinct move towards casual wear in Scabal’s 2010 Autumn-Winter collection.

Scabal is expanding its men’s casual-wear business. Five of the eight new winter fabrics are for jackets and trousers and there’s an exciting new line of ‘soft jackets’ in addition to cardigans and jumpers.

Autumn / Winter Video Link

It's Like Walking On...The Allen Edmond Verona

2010-03-15T07:49:00.000-07:00

I received this note from a client today...

"Just wanted to write you and say these new AE Veronas are awesome. They fit perfectly and they feel like I am walking on angels' boobs."

"That is all I have to say"

JM - Charlotte, NC

Here is the Verona if you are curious...call me and I can score you a pair. All jokes aside, it is a really great Spring/Summer addition to your wardrobe.

The That's-How-You-Do-It-if-You're-Big Award: Quinton Aaron

2010-03-08T10:16:00.000-08:00

This was posted on line last night over at esquire.com.

"He played a left tackle in The Blind Side, and you can't hide that kind of size under a regular old tuxedo. Or can you? Sometimes the best way around a diet is confidence? Head to toe in Astor & Black.

My good friend and talented professional clothier Aaron Benami had the pleasure of working with Quinton Aaron. If you are in L.A. or the surrounding area and would like to get fitted reach out to Mr. Benami - 1.800.Astor18.

How do you feel about a white suit for this Spring?

2010-02-18T09:13:00.000-08:00

Guest post from Astor&Black intern Kion Sanders

Guys, the winter season is moving quickly and we’ll be in Spring before-you-know-it. I just finished re-watching the Spring/Summer fashion shows to see what trends major labels – Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Gucci – are projecting for this year. The two things that stood out the most were white suits and tote bags.

Sure, white’s a color that most fear because its life expectancy isn’t that high but it is a great, trendy and versatile look worth the investment. Other than weddings, you don’t see too many guys in a full-white suit. Of course! A lot of us would feel totally uncomfortable because it isn’t that common here. I’ve heard from a fashion-model friend that white suits are all you see on men during the summer in European countries. Either way, it’s a thought for this upcoming season.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

2010-02-11T10:18:00.000-08:00

"I'm not here to make people look like a sack of potatoes" - Alexander McQueen

R.I.P.

The Goods: Chesterfield Coat, Field Jacket and Cargo Pant

2010-01-31T12:01:00.000-08:00

I have to admit I have been pretty slack with showing off the product that I sell. The biggest reason is there are so many great bloggers who are also good photographers hence making my product shots sub par to say the least. But...after many request I am going to start stepping up my game in this category. If you have any questions about any of these garments shown do give me a call. Remember - everything you see is truly custom, built by hand from the ground up. If you can dream it, I can make it - so let me know how I can help you.

The Chesterfield Coat

100% Cashmere

Hidden Buttons

Knee Length

Black Paisley Lining

Field Jacket

Fabric: Scabal

Patch Pockets

Removable Neck Closure

5 "Kissing" Button Sleeves

Copper Paisley Lining

Flannel Cargo Pant

Fabric: Scabal

Black Picked Stitching

Left leg Cargo Pocket

Off Seam Front Pockets

Lyndon B. Johnson speaks and his tailor listens....

2010-01-24T14:42:00.000-08:00

I thought my readers would enjoy this recent post on the great style/lifestyle blog A Continuous Lean. Give it a listen and get ready to chuckle. LBJ Talks to a tailor.

The Loose Tie Lesson Plan: Presented by eyefivestyle.com / Class Act Media

2010-01-19T10:21:00.000-08:00

In-Class Presentation: The Loose-Tie Lesson Plan from angelo spagnolo on Vimeo.

I thought my readers/clients could really take heed to the lessons taught in this great video from Angelo Spagnolo - curator of the style blog eyefivestyle.com I will let him explain it in his own words.

"-I share a lot of photos of myself wearing my tie a little bit loose. The loose tie helps me give a nod to rebel Ivy style and helps maintain my boyish charm, so I go with it probably 3 days out of the week. I wanted to make this video though to ensure my readers that, while I promote a loose tie under certain circumstances, you won't ever catch me looking like a Jersey Shore reject with a cheap satin tie tied in a huge knot hanging 6 inches below an unbottoned spread collar."

Well played indeed. Enjoy!

The Suit Bag Lesson: USE IT!

2010-01-16T16:43:00.000-08:00

On a trip this week visiting clients in northern Virginia I proceeded to drop my hanging suits pressed and ready to roll for the next day of appointments. Call me butter fingers I guess but the hanger slipped out of my hands and my suits and one shirt landed square in a slush puddle. Not a good look. With every suit I deliver there is a beautiful travel bag that it lives in and I advise you put it to good use. See - even Mark Sanchez uses his.

Have a great weekend and enjoy the playoffs.

Client Testimonial: Dr. Brian Walker

2009-12-30T16:42:00.000-08:00

I received these kind words the other day from a great guy - Dr. Brian Walker. Of course I had to share. Looking good doc!

Once you are introduced to custom clothing, you say to yourself, "Why was I ever buying off the peg?" David Watkins of Astor and Black helps you to develop your own style. The process and convenience of having a haberdasher come to you who knows what he is doing is more than satisfying. You literally feel like a kid in a candy store, and it can be hard making a decision which way to go at times. You can be as conservative or as wicked as you want. That is where David comes in. While showing you what seems like an endless sea of fabric, he is looking to see what excites you and that is what I respect most about the process. If there is something you don't like, he won't try to drape clothing on you and tell you it's great. In fact, he won't lie to you. After all, he is in the business of making you look fantastic!! In the end, it is your decision, your experience. They make clothing specified to your taste at such an affordable price, you just can't justify going back to buying off the rack. I have bought several suits and shirts and every time I go out now in them, people take notice and ask me where I shop. I think these guys are amazing, and you will too.

Thanks David!!

Dr. Brian Walker

--physician

Notice the left chest pocket on the vest - so when you take your jacket off, you can bring your pocket square with you. Details gentlemen, details...

New GQ Ad - On Stands 12/22

2009-12-21T12:59:00.001-08:00

New Arrival: SANYO "Rainwear/Anywhere"

2009-12-03T07:05:00.000-08:00

Sanyo New York was established in 1978 by Sanyo Shokai of Tokyo and takes pride in being an innovative outerwear company, producing contemporary coats and jackets. In 1986, the company built its own state-of the-art production facility in Oneonta, NY, making it the first Japanese company to hold such a presence in the United States. (Cool fact: It was the first company to treat wool gabardine for water repellancy)

The implementation of cutting-edge technology, in order to continually exceed the needs and expectation of their discerning customers, defines their products.

I really like the Sanyo philosophy stating that the boundaries that once existed between the rainwear and outerwear categories have all but disappeared. Appropriately, then, the company's tag line is Rainwear/Anywhere.

Ongoing efforts in researching new materials and environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes are evidenced by the unique features found in Sanyo coats today, which serve to elevate the Sanyo brand to a category all its own.

The Sanyo lines includes Sanyo Collection, Sanyo Outerwear, and the Sanyo Lux Wool Collection (my favorite). Each brand addresses a specific market, from the new hire to the top executive.

Sanyo is carried by Astor & Black throughout the USA and I look forward to fiiting my clients with this superb product. For more info visit SANYO FASHION HOUSE

Holiday Gift Guide Kickstarter!

2009-12-02T07:13:00.000-08:00

With the end of year coming closer, I know many of you are searching for gift ideas. Here is a little kick start to the Holiday season and to remind you all, we are more than just a custom clothier.

Astor & Black accessories comprise of an exclusive range of items made by the most highly skilled craftsmen using only the finest materials, and include; hats, gloves, ties, knitwear, belts, scarves, socks, jewelry and even cashmere blankets.

For starters and always a winner is the Astor & Black tie. Check out our exclusive seven fold ties. This process is an exercise in origami and is the original method of making a tie from a single piece of fabric. Created entirely by hand and using traditional techniques, a single piece of fabric is folded seven times, removing the need for internal construction.

Also in the realm of kneckwear, I just received some of our Private Label slim ties for perhaps the more modern gentleman who prefers a slimmer look. These will not last long!

For the ultimate luxury, consider these fine merchants brought to you by the Astor & Black team, delivered to your door with a smiling face. See something you like, be sure to give me a call...

LOAKE ENGLAND - English made shoes only availablein the US via Astor & Black.

ALLEN EDMONDS - The finest Amercian made shoes.

MULHOLLAND - Fine leather goods, perfect for the discerning man or woman.

CRESCENT BELT COMPANY - Seriously, who doesn't need a sting ray belt?

BABETTE WASSERMAN - When only the best cuff-links will do!

Happy Shopping!

Astor & BLACK FRIDAY! - Exclusive savings on the busiest shopping day of the year.

2009-11-27T05:40:00.000-08:00

Black Friday is the busiest shopping day of the year, but with Astor & BLACK FRIDAY you don't have the to leave the comfort of your home to reap the benefits. 4 days only, Friday November 27th - Monday November 30th, Astor & Black is going on sale. How do you shop? Just specify which offer you are interested in (see below), include any necessary information and I will take care of the rest. Who do you have to shop for this holiday season? Your father, brother, brother-in-law, son, husband, boss, assistant, attorney, accountant, or maybe yourself? This is the only day of the year this sale will be taking place.

Last year the most popular program was our Corporate Gift Card Program. If you are interested in doing something for your business associates, partners, employees, etc. please let me know. Wouldn't hurt to have a well dressed office :)

Finally, we are doing gifts for women this year! Gorgeous ladies cashmere sweaters in 30 colors and 25 styles...this in addition to our Mulholland Bag and Luggage collection. Ladies love cashmere and ladies love bags. Period. Let me know if you are interested.

OFFER#1 Popular Gift Cards
1 Custom Suit, Cashmere Sweater, 3 Custom Shirts and 1 tie Normally: $1295, Sale: $1165.50

1 Custom Suit, Cashmere Sweater, 3 Custom Shirts and 1 Pair of Bench Made Shoes. Normally: $1595.00, Sale: $1435.50

OFFER #2 10% Off of a custom package gift card
(Gift cards ship directly to you and are paid for upfront)

Packages:
3 custom made super 120's and cashmere suits, 3 custom made shirts and 3 hand made silk ties
$2,200 SALE: $1,980
3 custom made super 150's and cashmere suits, 3 custom made shirts and 3 hand made silk ties
$3,300 SALE: $2,970
3 custom made SCABAL suits, 3 custom made shirts and 3 hand made silk ties
$4,400 SALE: $3,960
3 custom made SCABAL Eton/Lifestyle suits, 3 custom made shirts and 3 hand made silk ties
$5,500 SALE: $4,950

OFFER #3 Customized Gift Cards
Have a gift card made in any dollar amount (minimum $50) and pay 10% less than the value of the card.

OFFER #4 2 Free Shirts When You Book Appointment Today!*
When you make an appointment today for anytime in December or January you get 2 free shirts along with the purchase you make during the appointment! $1,000 minimum purchase to qualify for the free shirts.

OFFER #5 Give The Gift That Fits!
Refer a friend and he/she will get a free shirt along with their 1st Astor & Black purchase.*
*Referral: Must be someone who is not already sporting Astor & Black gear, must spend a minimum of $1,000. This referral will also count towards our referral program, when you reach 5 referrals you will have a $500 credit towards your next purchase.

So be sure to book your appointment or submit your order today! I look forward to hearing from you.

2009-11-26T07:15:00.000-08:00

Stay tuned for the Astor & BLACK FRIDAY Sale going on tomorrow...

Cashmere - Just in time for the Holidays...

2009-11-23T11:17:00.000-08:00

The company that brought the best (and reasonably priced) bespoke suits to Charlotte, also offers the finest cashmere sweaters and overcoats.

Choose from crews, v-necks and zip-ups in every color under the sun. Prices start at under $200 - amazing considering that nearly identical pieces in a premium department store would cost triple that amount.

Even better, A&B also offers custom-fitted overcoats in cashmere from the ultra-luxe Loro Piana firm. As expected, we personalize the coat to your exact specifications, including color, length, lining and buttons. All for less than some boxy and unflattering off-the-rack wool shell at the mall. How sick is this custom cashmere double breasted pea coat?

Expect the same amazing quality and fit as found in our custom suits and blazers. And guys, if you haven’t had the opportunity to own an Astor & Black original, be sure to try one.

So let's get together...schedule an appointment today!

davidwatkins@astorandblack.com.

Initials Required? Easy as A, B, C....

2009-11-11T09:43:00.000-08:00

A question I receive quite often concerns the monogram. Where do I put it? What color? What style? Hell...do I even want one?

Monogrammed shirts (ties, pocket squares, pants - yes even pants) are definitely not a necessity but in terms of style, I think they are a great way of personalizing your look. In the Victorian era, rules for monograms were quite simple and few. Monograms had the first initial on the left, middle initial on the right, and last initial embroidered larger in the middle. But the rules are hardly simple anymore. A monogram can be playful, whimsical, flamboyant, traditional, elegant, or understated; the number of choices today is almost infinite. Many still choose to use the traditional Victorian model, known as the "female model", but now there is a traditional "male model" of first, middle, last, all in the same size, and there are numerous styles to choose from. As time goes so does the old way of doing things. I offer free monogramming and to help with the process, here is my "how to" on branding yourself without looking out of touch.

SHIRTS: Monograms are typically a 1/2 inch or smaller and can be executed in a rainbow of colors. Left or right cuff is easily the most popular location. For a little flair go with a color that is bright or lettering that is uncommon. For a more conservative approach opt for color on color...maybe blue on blue or even white on white which is a really classy look. Other locations to consider: lower chest, pocket, lower front tail or the center seam of the shirt bottom. I have even put monograms underneath collars. It is really up to you!

SWEATERS: Traditionally, initials were sewn where the polo pony would go, but near the waistband is more modern. I have even seen a few on the cuff...a neat touch.

TIES: Tie monograms are typically placed on the narrow, underside. I have seen a resurgence of getting this done on an angle at the bottom front of the tie. This works really well with ties made out of winter fabrics (wool/cashmere, etc)

PANTS: This is for the real creative. Waist band on a belt loop or right on the inside of a side pocket.

ACCESSORIES: Monograms on bags and handkerchiefs should be simple and centered.

So the monogram...letters combined as a mark of identity. What will your mark be? Better yet, where will you put it? Leave a comment - would love to hear your take on it.

L.A. Laker Jordan Farmar on suits, style, Sunday whites

2009-10-30T07:49:00.000-07:00

L.A. Laker star Jordan Farmar sat down with the L.A. Times earlier this week to discuss some of his thoughts on fashion. All of his suits are made by Astor & Black...here he explains why.

On court, the NBA season officially gets underway locally tonight when the Lakers face off against the Clippers, but style-wise, it's already well underway, Kobe Bryant having unveiled his blinged-out watch collaboration with Nubeo at the new Phillipe Chow restaurant earlier this month (which I'll be posting about in more detail later today) and a flotilla of new purple-and-gold commemorative championship merchandise being readied for players and fans alike.

Some of the merchandise will be on display tonight when the world-champion Lakers attend an on-court pregame ceremony to receive their championship rings and hoist another banner to the ceiling of Staples Center. The most visible piece of the 2009 Los Angeles Lakers Champion Collection will be the purple Adidas track jackets each player will be wearing.

In addition to the team logo over the left breast and Adidas' signature trio of stripes (in gold) down each sleeve, the back of each jacket is emblazoned with 15 gold star patches -- one for each championship -- that fittingly call to mind the stars that line the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

Because Laker guard Jordan Farmar has a sponsorship deal with Adidas, he agreed to a get on the phone yesterday for a quick chat with All the Rage. Far more interesting than his take on the collection -- he said he'd seen some but not all of the pieces and says he finds the star-festooned jacket all the more meaningful as someone who grew up in Los Angeles watching the Lakers legacy unfold -- was the insight into the former UCLA standout's personal style. An excerpt of the Q&A follows the jump.

Q: Most of the off-court photos I've seen of you look pretty casual and dressed down. Do you like dressing up?

A: I do like dressing up -- very much. I've got 30, maybe 35, suits, and I dress up all the time.

Q: OK, if this were the red carpet, I'd be asking: "Who are you wearing?" Since it's not: Who makes your suits?

A: All of my stuff is made by a company called Astor & Black. I think they're based in Vegas, but they come right to you, wherever you are. We design the suits from the ground up. I even choose the color of the stitching. It's a kind of collaborative effort from start to finish.

Q: Where did you get that level of appreciation for style?

A: My grandmother Adella Farmar was in the fashion industry. She was a [costume] designer and worked on shows like "Good Times," "227" and "Married With Children." Growing up, she made all my Halloween costumes and all of my suits from scratch. And she gave me style pointers -- all those little things about formal dressing, like not to wear slip-on shoes with a suit.

Q: So, what's your personal style signature?

A: I definitely like to switch it up with a pocket square. Astor & Black makes these pocket squares that match the lining of the suit jacket, and they also make me these four-piece suits.

Q: Sorry? A four-piece suit?

A: It's like a three-piece suit, but the tie is made out of the same fabric as the rest of the suit, so the only thing that's in a different fabric is the dress shirt. To me, it's the little things that make the difference. I'm playing by the rules but having fun at the same time.

Q: Since it seems like you pay attention to all these things, I have to ask: What's your take on the "Sunday whites" alternate uniforms?

A: I love [them], I absolutely love [them]. I think they look so good; I wish our home uniforms were the white ones with purple and gold trim. The gold ones could be Sunday alternates/tribute uniforms. I play a lot of Sunday games, so you have to wear those quite often.

Q: Lamar Odom has his own clothing line. Kobe Bryant just did a watch collaboration. With your clear appreciation of style, have you ever thought about doing a clothing line?

A:Yes, it’s something I think about. I definitely have an interest in fashion, but I need to get myself -- and my future-- squared away first, that's all.

Q: Which brings me to Tuesday's opening game. As the season begins, what's the biggest thing you need to accomplish on the court?

A: I want to continue to grow as a player. I know that every opportunity needs to be earned and that I need to play well and be ready for every opportunity and play at the highest level I can.

The Los Angeles Lakers Champion Collection, which includes flat-brimmed hats, special shooting shirts and the Anniversary Jacket, is available at Champs Sports, Fanzz and the Team L.A. shop at Staples Center, as well as online at NBAStore.com.

-- Adam Tschorn

The Great Cuff Debate

2009-10-22T05:45:00.000-07:00

To cuff or not to cuff? This has been a real topic of discussion as of late with my clients. General rule has always been if you go with a pleat, you must cuff. I do agree. However, in the past, all flat front pants were generally made without a cuff. Well gentlemen, times are a'changin! It is rare to find a pair of flat front pants off the rack that do have cuffs - so this feature has long been a custom addition - one that I have really enjoyed as of late. Something about a cuff that just finishes the bottom of the pant. As you will see in this great video from GQ featuring Michael Bastian - he describes the cuff as the "anchor to the suit" - I dig that. So let's stay away from the pleats and add a cuff. Who is in?

Charlotte Fashion Show @ Luna Lounge Featuring Astor & Black

2009-10-21T07:51:00.001-07:00

I had the pleasure to feature some of my custom clothing to a very young and hip audience the other night. Thanks goes out to Michael Press for the opportunity. All the clothing you see is Astor & Black. The presentation was unique - showcasing the myriad of ways you can wear custom clothing. Even for the ladies - who - let's face it - could have been wearing pajamas and they would have pulled it off in high style. The venue was very dark and we were not able to get great pictures of all the models - but I think you will get the idea. All photo credits: Digital Diplomat

Listen: Mayer Hawthorne

2009-10-20T05:35:00.000-07:00

Big shout out to Kristopher Nordstrom (client and friend) for turning me onto Mr. Mayer Hawthorne. The kid can sing and keeping with the theme of all things cool, he is not scared to dress it up. I think I should give him a sponsorship as he is on the brink of blowing up!

Look at the packaging for this 4" Vinyl. Comes in a CD case...sick! (click to listen)

Get yourself a bow tie...and maybe, just maybe the girl will be included.

Mayer Hawthorne

Astor & Black Charlotte - Showroom Opening

2009-10-13T13:02:00.000-07:00

Pleased to announce I have opened a showroom in beautiful Uptown Charlotte, NC. A place to mingle, see my latest offerings, peruse thousands of fabric selections and so on. I always needed a place to see clients in Uptown, and the nice people at Emerson Joseph - "A Men's Grooming Lounge" have offered me a spot with them. This allows for the members of Emerson Joseph to have the service of an in-house tailor and it allows me access to these members. A true win-win! Thanks to everyone for coming and a special thanks to the Jack Daniel's brands for being on hand sampling their libations...a tremendous evening indeed.

The New Bespoke - Astor and Black

2009-10-01T09:11:00.000-07:00

Recently got some love with Debonair Magazine

Classically there have been two main roads to acquiring a suit: an off the rack, department store jacket and pants that may fit well enough with a few alterations, but certainly nothing special. There is then the ultimate luxury in men’s clothing, the fully custom bespoke suit from one of Savile Row’s ancient establishments. Made to exacting standards and more often than not by a man older than your grandfather, it’s a suit that will last a lifetime, never mind may take that long to pay off.

There’s a new way however, one that doesn’t mean settling for less for the discerning man. A new wave of American suit makers are offering fully custom, made to measure suits that have the custom fit and fabric of a Savile Row number but for a fraction of the price. This doesn’t mean they’re cheap, these are still made from Scabal cashmere, the same fabric used by Brioni in it’s own suits and have many of the same features such as functioning button-holes (a now lost detail in all but high end suits).

One of the most promising of this new wave of suit makers however is Astor and Black, the brainchild of 25-year-old David Schottenstein. While studying abroad in Italy, Schottenstein became fascinated by the craftsmanship of fine Italian suits and noticed the lack of similar offerings in the United States. Soon after returning he opened the first Astor and Black office in his native Columbus, Ohio and since then the company has grown steadily.

They have outposts in almost every major American city and have started expanding internationally this year. What this means is that someone will be at your office or home for the first consultation and measurements and then for every subsequent fitting. Your Astor and Black representative will walk you through the multitude of options for your suit and even help you pick out matching shirts and ties to take the guesswork out of the morning rush. After every aspect of your suit is decided and fittings are completed, the finished product will arrive in about a month, not too bad for something a bit less offensive to your bottom line than a $10,000 trip to London.

http://www.astorandblack.com/

Featured

2009-09-30T11:35:00.000-07:00

"Paul Walters on Style" has seen fit to profile yours truly. Mucho thanks to Mr. Walters. Dig it here

Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. To sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do pays homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Brown has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Brown has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Brown for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?
DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?
DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."
DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!
Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,
contact David.
Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.
(mobile)704-737-4274
(office)704-376-1102
Cheers.
-Paul

Take Advantage

2009-09-18T16:33:00.000-07:00

This is your last opportunity to take advantage of receiving 6 shirts with any of our suit and casual packages. Tremendous value...so act quick. Offer ends at the end of the month -- book your appointment now!

ASTOR & BLACK SUIT PACKAGES
· 3 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 120’S SUITS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HANDMADE SILK TIES - $2,200
· 3 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 150’S SUITS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HANDMADE SILK TIES - $3,300
· 3 CUSTOM-MADE SCABAL SUITS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HANDMADE SILK TIES - $4,400
· 3 CUSTOM-MADE ETON/LIFESTYLE SCABAL SUITS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HANDMADE SILK TIES - $5,500
ASTOR & BLACK CASUAL PACKAGES
· 2 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 120’S SPORT JACKETS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 4 CUSTOM-MADE PANTS, 1 PAIR OF BENCH-MADE SHOES - $2,200
· 2 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 150’S SPORT JACKETS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 4 CUSTOM-MADE PANTS, 1 PAIR OF BENCH-MADE SHOES - $3,300
· 2 CUSTOM-MADE SCABAL SPORT JACKETS, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 4 CUSTOM-MADE PANTS, 1 PAIR OF BENCH-MADE SHOES - $4,400
ASTOR & BLACK FORMAL WEAR / WEDDING PACKAGES
· 1 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 120’S TUXEDO, 1 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 120’S SUIT, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HAND-MADE SILK TIES, 2 PAIRS OF BENCH-MADE SHOES, 1 BELT - $2,200
· 1 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 150’S TUXEDO, 1 CUSTOM-MADE SUPER 150’S SUIT, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HAND-MADE SILK TIES, 2 PAIRS OF BENCH-MADE SHOES, 1 BELT - $3,300
· 1 CUSTOM-MADE SCABAL TUXEDO, 1 CUSTOM-MADE SCABAL SUIT, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HAND-MADE SILK TIES, 2 PAIRS OF BENCH-MADE SHOES, 1 BELT - $4,400
· 1 CUSTOM-MADE ETON/LIFESTYLE SCABAL TUXEDO, 1 CUSTOM-MADE ETON/LIFESTYLE SCABAL SUIT, 6 CUSTOM-MADE SHIRTS, 3 HAND-MADE SILK TIES, 2 PAIRS OF BENCH-MADE SHOES, 1 BELT - $5,500

David M. Watkins
704-737-4274
davidwatkins@astorandblack.com

EVENT: Astor & Black Showroom Grand Opening Party - Wednesday September 16th - 5:30pm - 8:30pm presented by Jack Daniels Brands

2009-09-10T08:15:00.000-07:00

Hope to see everyone Wednesday night!!

Emerson Joseph is proud to announce the tailoring services of David M. Watkins for Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. The new show room is located inside the Uptown location at 221 S. Tryon St.and we are having a soiree' to celebrate the arrival!

What is Astor & Black?
Astor & Black provides custom made clothing tailored with the finest fabrics available at off the rack prices. Garments are completely hand tailored and all jackets are fully canvassed. Incredible attention is paid to every detail and finish. Clients choose from hundreds of suit fabrics from some of the finest mills in the world. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with standard features such as surgeon cuffs (functioning buttonholes), hand picked stitching and more. Every garment is tailored to your exact specifications and personal taste with unlimited styles and options.

All shirts are tailored with the finest cottons. Choose from hundreds of fabrics, thirty-one collar, fourteen cuff and eight pocket styles. Also, a choice of twenty-four monogram styles comes standard with every shirt order.

With Astor & Black, client convenience is of utmost importance--we can work out of your home, office or showroom. Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed.

Package Pricing:

3 custom made super 120's cashmere/wool suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $2,200
3 custom made super 150's suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $3,300
3 custom made Scabal suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $4,400

Individual suits - $550 - $1350
Individual shirts - $95 - $110
Individual slacks - $150 - $450

Astor & Black also offers over-coats, cotton slacks, Babette Wasserman Cuff Links and Tie-Bars as well as Allen Edmond's and Loake Shoes.

So please come help us celebrate the opening of the Astor & Black show room Wednesday September 16th. Meet David, see the product first hand, enjoy samplings from the Jack Daniels brands and if the mood strikes, book an appointment. If you can't wait and would like a jump on the service now, you can set up an appointment by contacting David directly.

David M. Watkins|Astor & Black Custom Clothiers|Southeast
O:704-376-1102 | C:704-737-4274
davidwatkins@astorandblack.com

TREND ALERT: The 4 Piece Suit

2009-08-18T18:18:00.000-07:00

A trend I see that continues to grow are custom ties matching your custom suit. I am happy to execute this for you. These pictures are a version of the 4 piece (missing the vest) but you get the idea. I am curious to see what you guys do with this...could be real fun!

Allen Edmonds: The Re-crafting Process

2009-08-14T05:44:00.000-07:00

As many of you know I carry the full the line of Allen Edmonds. These shoes are so comfortable and I must say the styling as of late has really taken a turn for the better. (See FALL/WINTER line that just came out - amazing!) Allen Edmonds, if taken care of, should last you 20+ years. The biggest reason for the life of these shoes is their incredible re-crafting process. Basically taking your old, worn down AE's, sprinkling some kind of miracle dust on them and wha-laah - brand new shoes. Actually, there is no magic dust, but rather a very tedious process they offer called re-crafting. You are able to re-craft a shoe 5-6 times...and for only a nominal fee can have a "new" pair of shoes every few years. Recently on a trip in Miami, I had dinner with Scabal's Harvey Resnick. He was wearing a pair of AE's he has had for 20 years. AMAZING...they looked as good today as I assume they did when purchased. With the re-crafting process, these are the best shoe value in the market place. Here is a cool video explaining the process. Enjoy!

NEW PRODUCT: Mulholland Luxury Leather Goods

2009-08-13T14:47:00.000-07:00

I am proud to be carrying the entire line from Mulholland Luxury Leather Goods. In a world of second-bests, Mulholland has set out to create a line of leather and leather-trimmed luxury goods made without compromise. What began as a very small collection of specialized leather field sport gear has evolved and grown into a line that now encompasses men's, women's, luggage, gift, golf and corporate sales divisions. The mix includes functional, thoughtfully designed, finely crafted products for the world traveler, businesspeople and sportsmen. My favorite...damn thats tough. I will go with the American Alligator Safari Bag seen here.

Check here for the catalog.

Talese's Grant To Tailoring

2009-08-13T14:42:00.001-07:00

Client Testimonial: Paul Walters

2009-07-14T13:46:00.000-07:00

Hello again! This entry can be subtitled "Going Custom part Deux", as once again I will be singing the praises of a gem of a custom clothier, Astor & Black. My most recent suit from these guys met all of my expectations, and after establishing a relationship with my local representative, I felt open to being a little bit more creative (and might we say... daring) than I had when designing my last suit.

The beautiful Bemberg lining is my favorite part; in a custom suit, the details that I care about are all hidden.

A wild lining is hidden until you want it to be. This one, I fell in love with (see picture). One of the cool things about Astor & Black suits is that the lining is also used as the interior of the breast pocket, which when turned inside out, can serve as a pocket square. How cool is that?

In addition to a bitchin' lining, I was able to choose slanted pocket flaps, and had the shoulders cut in the neopolitan style, with a natural slope and slightly ruffled sleevehead. I also chose contrast stitching for the first buttonholes on my surgeon cuffs. Choice.

And the best part is... I've paid more for off-the-peg suits. This one is bespoke. Rock on! Visit astorandblack.com to setup a no-obligation consultation with your local representative, and check out some of their wares. The site has pics! This is not an advertisement, but rather an endorsement for a firm that pairs custom clothing and affordability, making exceptionally high quality available to any man. If your job requires you to buy suits at all, you can afford a suit by Astor & Black. This is a company that I believe in.

Here is Paul wearing one of his A&B suits...one for a wedding (a more formal occasion) and again for some head shots he had done (paired down with jeans)...both look great!

ON LOCATION: Washington, DC

2009-07-06T13:45:00.000-07:00

I will be taking appointments Tuesday July 7th and Wednesday July 8th at the Capitol Hill Suites on Capitol Hill. Please reach out if you would like to book an appointment. Now is a great time to start planning Fall/Winter - clients placing orders now will be ready come September.

TRENDS: Fall / Winter - Part #2 "The Double Breasted Suit"

2009-06-28T14:21:00.000-07:00

Double Breasted Suits

If there's one thing I'm excited about buying this Fall / Winter it's a modern, double-breasted suit. Slim cut is the direction. Broad shouldered with a slim waist, 2009's double-breasted suits trump most that current generations will be familiar with; they're no longer about hiding a plump figure but are now tailored to highlight the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body. This is not to say that my "larger" customers cannot go down this road. Some of my best work has been on bigger guy's...there is something about the double breasted suit that separates you from the herd, shows an air of confidence. With my suit packages, clients get 3 suits...and I expect many to rotate the double breasted option into the wardrobe.

Pictures speak much better than I...so here are two examples of what to be looking for.

Congrats!

2009-06-25T06:23:00.000-07:00

My man David Schottenstein, the fearless leader of A&B was named a finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award...an insider told me this AM we won! Nice. Here is the Press Release from a few days ago...

David Schottenstein of Astor & Black Named Finalist for Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year

David Schottenstein of Astor & Black Named Finalist for Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year
Columbus, OH, June 24, 2009 --(PR.com)-- Astor & Black’s founder and CEO David Schottenstein has been named a finalist for the 2009 Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award. Mr. Schottenstein will be honored at the awards gala in Cincinnati tomorrow evening.

Founded in 2004, Mr. Schottenstein quickly grew Astor & Black into an international organization, featuring representatives across the United States, Canada, and Europe. Mr. Schottenstein is a nominee in the Emerging Business category selected by a regional and national panel of judges, which include entrepreneurs and prominent leaders from academia, business, and the media.

“I feel very honored to be considered for this prestigious award,” Schottenstein said. “I think it is a testament to all the hard work that my team of dedicated employees and representatives have done since I founded this company five years ago.”

About Astor & Black
The suit makes the man. With an unwavering focus on quality and value Astor & Black Custom Clothiers has provided distinguished men throughout the world with fine custom suiting since its establishment in 2004. They provide fully canvassed, handmade suits, jackets, pants and shirts that are second to none in craftsmanship and quality.

Astor & Black is committed to providing customers with true excellence and innovation in fine suiting.

Trends: Fall / Winter - Part #1 "The Cut"

2009-06-24T06:33:00.000-07:00

Hard to believe but it's that time of year to begin planning Fall/Winter. July will be a busy month as clients begin to prepare for their looks this coming season. I wanted to touch on a few "trends" that I think you should know about as we move forward. With the likes of the economic downturn, classics will stay at the front as clients look to "invest" in pieces that will keep them looking sharp for seasons to come.

The Cut

We are seeing more designers moving away from the "skinny" suit - but slim is still in. Classic tailoring, classic looks and the modern masculine silhouette. Broad shoulders, slim waist, slim trousers, and attention to custom detailing...all of which I can provide.

This will be a several part series, but for now, be thinking of the cut of your new suits and over coats for Fall / Winter.

Client Testimonial: Jay Flowe

2009-06-24T05:49:00.000-07:00

"I have been wearing custom clothing for the better part of ten years. During that time I have tried many purveyors of clothes and never have seen anyone come close to the quality, choice, style options and value that A&B can provide. As an ambassador to the brand, David Watkins keeps me up to date with the options that I may want to know about. Having someone that knows your preference in your corner makes the shopping experience both efficient and fun. I have found a partner with Astor & Black and Astor & Black has found a long lasting home in my closet."

Jay Flowe - Strategic Management Consultant, Transamerica

Here is Jay in action sporting a Super 150's vanilla pinstripe gray two button suit. Slanted pockets with vanilla stitching on 1st button hole and lapel. Astor & Black tie and custom shirt as well. Perfect amount of cuff showing for me. SHARP! He also has the vest...I expect to see that debut this fall.

Words From: Lapo Elkann

2009-06-22T18:32:00.001-07:00

"To be independent means to write your own story everyday” - Lapo Elkann

Custom Golf Pants

2009-06-13T14:22:00.001-07:00

I have been making quite a few of these lately with excellent results. I am waiting on a few more pair now and will post those pics when they arrive. Remember you have total control over the design of these. From the stitching color, to special pockets, you want it, I will make it. Keep it in the short grass.

Wanted: The Bell & Ross BR-S Gold Silver Dial

2009-06-13T14:21:00.001-07:00

I will need to sell quite a bit of custom clothing to acquire a new one...but good design is so worth it. Keep up the inspiring work Bell & Ross.

Inspiration: Christopher Walken

2009-06-08T20:51:00.000-07:00

Inspiration: Steve McQueen

2009-06-08T20:36:00.000-07:00

World's Greatest DJ Booth? - Adidas Brand Tour

2009-06-08T20:35:00.000-07:00

Inspiration: The Home of Mr. Frank Sinatra

2009-06-08T20:34:00.000-07:00

J. Crew Men's Store - NY

2009-05-18T10:43:00.002-07:00

Image grab from the new J. Crew Men's Store in NY. Fitting I thought.

Inspiration: Mr. Robert Redford

2009-05-18T10:43:00.001-07:00

Mr. Robert Redford, so casual cool.

Inspiration: Mr. Derrick Miller

2009-05-18T10:42:00.000-07:00

The man behind the vision for Barker Black Shoes & Accessories. Quality.

Inspiration: Sartorialist Street Grab

2009-05-12T13:27:00.000-07:00

I always find it amazing what images we quickly forget and the ones that stay with you. This one has stayed with me, so I thought I would share it.

Words From: Anonymous

2009-05-12T13:26:00.001-07:00

We have all thought it at one point or another. Standing in a gallery, admiring the work of an artist thinking "I could do that"...yeah...but you didn't. Now cough up $2,500 or move on.

Logo: Seaboard Railroad

2009-04-10T09:39:00.000-07:00

My Grandfather worked for the Seaboard line in Hamlet, NC. He was by far the most stylish man I have personally ever known. No matter what, he was always crisp. Starched white dress shirts, pressed slacks and colorful socks. The man had A game. Even as he got older and fell ill he would always make it a point to dress up. This logo reminds me of him. Also, as a former ad executive, I think the logo is spot on.

Outfit: Perfect Friday

2009-04-10T05:52:00.001-07:00

I think this shows a great way to wear your blue blazer or suit coat. Personally I am very fond of this look and wear it for all 4 seasons. I just cannot part with my jeans...and think pairing it with a well fitted jacket separates you from the herd. So many guys get this wrong because the fit of coat is off or the jeans are too big. Keep the jeans fitted and slim through the leg...the coat should fit snug as well. Punch up your outfit with great accessories and your ready to roll...day or night.

Video: "Martin the Tailor"

2009-04-08T11:33:00.001-07:00

Martin the Tailor from Ed David on Vimeo.

Correspondence

2009-03-30T13:36:00.000-07:00

A not so typical reminder to a client of mine. He really got a kick out of it. I wish I was better at correspondence. At least when I do send something I send it in style. Crane paper gets the credit.

2009-03-30T13:22:00.001-07:00

2009-03-30T13:18:00.000-07:00

Inspiration: Mr. Michael Caine

2009-03-27T12:54:00.001-07:00

2009-03-27T12:40:00.001-07:00

Custom Made: Sleeveheads

2009-03-27T11:05:00.000-07:00

There has been more chatter lately on the cut and lay of the shoulder in custom made suits. I am seeing trends leaning toward a more "Italian shoulder"...soft, pleated etc. Ran across this drawing of several types and thought you might find it interesting. During my client consultations, the sleeve head is discussed. Most clients don't care, they just say "make me look good"...which is what I do.

Custom Made: The Military Shirt

2009-03-27T09:26:00.002-07:00

The Military Shirt has been a hot item this spring...I assume it will carry into the summer and fall. I have made these with one pocket, two pockets, with contrasting stitching and buttons....short sleeve and long. This image was one I re-created for a client. Single pocket - no flap - button closure. His was made out of linen. Light brown with dark brown stitching. Mother of pearl buttons. Turned out great! Contact me if you would like one as well.